STRANGER.- My history I shall tell to no one.I have travelled much, I have been in commerce and have thriven.I am at present established in Portugal, but I love not the people of Catholic countries, and least of all these of Spain.I have lately experienced the most shameful injustice in the Aduana of this town, and when I complained, they laughed at me and called me Jew.Wherever he turns, the Jew is reviled, save in your country, and on that account my blood always warms when I see an Englishman.You are a stranger here.Can I do aught for you? You may command me.
MYSELF.- I thank you heartily, but I am in need of no assistance.
STRANGER.- Have you any bills, I will accept them if you have?
MYSELF.- I have no need of assistance; but you may do me a favour by accepting of a book.
STRANGER.- I will receive it with thanks.I know what it is.What a singular people? The same dress, the same look, the same book.Pelham gave me one in Egypt.Farewell! Your Jesus was a good man, perhaps a prophet; but...farewell!
Well may the people of Pontevedra envy the natives of Vigo their bay, with which, in many respects, none other in the world can compare.On every side it is defended by steep and sublime hills, save on the part of the west, where is the outlet to the Atlantic; but in the midst of this outlet, up towers a huge rocky wall, or island, which breaks the swell, and prevents the billows of the western sea from pouring through in full violence.On either side of this island is a passage, so broad, that navies might pass through at all times in safety.The bay itself is oblong, running far into the land, and so capacious, that a thousand sail of the line might ride in it uncrowded.The waters are dark, still, and deep, without quicksands or shallows, so that the proudest man-of-war might lie within a stone's throw of the town ramparts without any fear of injuring her keel.
Of many a strange event, and of many a mighty preparation has this bay been the scene.It was here that the bulky dragons of the grand armada were mustered, and it was from hence that, fraught with the pomp, power, and terror of old Spain, the monster fleet, spreading its enormous sails to the wind, and bent on the ruin of the Lutheran isle, proudly steered; - that fleet, to build and man which half the forests of Galicia had been felled, and all the mariners impressed from the thousand bays and creeks of the stern Cantabrian shore.It was here that the united flags of Holland and England triumphed over the pride of Spain and France; when the burning timbers of exploded war-ships soared above the tops of the Gallegan hills, and blazing galleons sank with their treasure chests whilst drifting in the direction of Sampayo.It was on the shores of this bay that the English guards first emptied Spanish bodegas, whilst the bombs of Cobham were crushing the roofs of the castle of Castro, and the vecinos of Pontevedra buried their doubloons in cellars, and flying posts were conveying to Lugo and Orensee the news of the heretic invasion and the disaster of Vigo.All these events occurred to my mind as I stood far up the hill, at a short distance from the fort, surveying the bay.
"What are you doing there, Cavalier?" roared several voices."Stay, Carracho! if you attempt to run we will shoot you!" I looked round and saw three or four fellows in dirty uniforms, to all appearance soldiers, just above me, on a winding path, which led up the hill.Their muskets were pointed at me."What am I doing? Nothing, as you see," said I, "save looking at the bay; and as for running, this is by no means ground for a course." "You are our prisoner," said they, "and you must come with us to the fort." "I was just thinking of going there," I replied, "before you thus kindly invited me.
The fort is the very spot I was desirous of seeing." Ithereupon climbed up to the place where they stood, when they instantly surrounded me, and with this escort I was marched into the fort, which might have been a strong place in its time, but was now rather ruinous."You are suspected of being a spy," said the corporal, who walked in front."Indeed," said I."Yes," replied the corporal, "and several spies have lately been taken and shot."Upon one of the parapets of the fort stood a young man, dressed as a subaltern officer, and to this personage I was introduced."We have been watching you this half hour," said he, "as you were taking observations." "Then you gave yourselves much useless trouble," said I."I am an Englishman, and was merely looking at the bay.Have the kindness now to show me the fort."...
After some conversation, he said, "I wish to be civil to people of your nation, you may therefore consider yourself at liberty." I bowed, made my exit, and proceeded down the hill.
Just before I entered the town, however, the corporal, who had followed me unperceived, tapped me on the shoulder."You must go with me to the governor," said he."With all my heart," Ireplied.The governor was shaving, when we were shown up to him.He was in his shirt sleeves, and held a razor in his hand.He looked very ill-natured, which was perhaps owing to his being thus interrupted in his toilet.He asked me two or three questions, and on learning that I had a passport, and was the bearer of a letter to the English consul, he told me that Iwas at liberty to depart.So I bowed to the governor of the town, as I had done to the governor of the fort, and making my exit proceeded to my inn.
At Vigo I accomplished but little in the way of distribution, and after a sojourn of a few days, I returned in the direction of Saint James.
